The Central Pillar of Freney sticks out of the Freney glacier almost 4500mt above sea level and high above everything else in Europe. This magnificent pillar of red granite was the site of a terribile disaster in 1961, when 4 alpinist died during a 5 day storm. Only Walter Bonatti, Pierre Mazeud and Roberto Gallieni survived to tell the tale. A couple of weeks later the pillar was climbed by british all-around hardmen Chris Bonington, Don Whillans, Ian Clough, Jan Duglosz. Since I started climbing 10 years ago, my friend and mentor Davide ‘Dade’ Mazzucchelli, told me about this story and this great pillar that leads all the way to the top of Mont Blanc. He told me that the approach was difficult and that the route was extremely committing. This got me intrigued and fascinated. Now after 10 years of honing my skills I felt ready, fit and motivated to give it a go! So on the 3th of July during a spell of high pressure me and Luca Moroni packed our gear, got in the car and drove to Courmayeur.

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